The Best Things to Do in Puerto Vallarta
Puerto Vallarta will hit you right in the gut.
I mean that both good and bad. It’s a city that captivated me the first time I visited first in 2013. Back then, I decided that one day I would live in Puerto Vallarta. The universe gave me little breadcrumbs along the way to ensure that that happened. Now, more than a decade later, Puerto Vallarta is officially a home base for David and me. No where else in the world feels more like home (except New York, of course).
Let’s real talk for a second, though: Puerto Vallarta is kind of a shit show. It’s a little rough around the edges, and a little chaotic. But in all honesty, that’s what I love most about it. There is a high concentration of tourists -- the population is around 500,000, which is double what it was 10 years ago, and the city sees 6 million tourists every year. The infrastructure is working hard to keep up, but it’s not quite there yet, and the traffic is, frankly, insane.
That said, tourists, locals, and expats all hang together in a way that is far more genuine than anywhere else I’ve been in Mexico. If you’re concerned about Puerto Vallarta safety, don’t be. Mexico is an incredibly safe place to visit. However, if you go looking for trouble, you’ll find it, same as any other major city in the world.
This is paradise for night crawlers -- the dance parties get going as early as 8pm, and quit as late (or early) as 5am. Puerto Vallarta nightlife is legendary. Yet PV also rewards with its breathtaking, scruffy beauty: terracotta roofs top white-washed buildings, which scatter up from the bay into the misty, mountain jungle around the city. It’s a beautiful contrast of clay, white, green, and blue, mixed with the explosive purple bougainvillea blossoms that arch over the cobblestone streets.
No, it does not have the most beautiful beaches in Mexico -- or at least, not right in front of you. You have to know where to find them, but they definitely exist. And when you do find them, you typically have them all to yourself.
You’ll only see that side of Puerto Vallarta if you’re doing it right. Here’s how.
Puerto Vallarta weather: the best time to visit (other than literally any time)
Puerto Vallarta is in a geographical sweet spot -- it’s on the Bay of Banderas (one of the largest bay in the world), sheltered by the Sierra Madre Occidental mountain range, protected from the threat of hurricanes (for the most part). It’s in the north of the country, so temperatures stay mild a majority of the year.
Visit between January and April for the very best weather. You can visit in the summer (when everything is a fraction of the price), but prepare for the sky to open up Shawshank Redemption-style multiple times a day. August and September are the most brutal in terms of humidity.
New Year’s Eve is a massive party, so avoid it if you want to stay low-key. Same with Easter and Semana Santa (Holy Week, which begins Palm Sunday). The city will be gridlocked, first by Mexicans on vacation, and then by sloppy, loud gringos on Spring Break. Unless of course you are a sloppy, loud gringo, in which case knock yourself out.
Puerto Vallarta neighborhoods to hit (and which to avoid)
Coming from Puerto Vallarta International Airport (PVR) into downtown, you’ll pass the ritzy Marina, where the cruise ships and yachts dock. The slips are surrounded by high-end condos, touristy restaurants, overpriced shopping, and tour operators. Keep moving.
You’ll then pass the Hotel Zone, which is a strip of all-inclusive resorts along the northern beaches of PV. This area also has a few new-ish shopping malls and a Food Park. Keeeep moving.
But turn inland just a little bit. Here is where you'll discover Puerto Vallarta's Versalles neighborhood. The residential neighborhood has undergone a mega transformation in recent years to become one of the city's rising stars.
With much more affordable Airbnbs than downtown (because it is not a neighborhood right on the beach), you're going to have the real experience of what it's like to live like a modern-day local in Puerto Vallarta.
The foodie scene in this neighborhood is out of this world, too, but more on that later. You can expect new condos to be developed here soon, if they haven't already been built. And before you know it, the boutique hotel scene here is going to thrive.
And then you’ll hit Cinco de Diciembre. This neighborhood is a solid blend of locals and expats, extending from the beach up the hillsides. It’ll be your first encounter with PV’s red-tiled roofs, cobblestone streets, and purple bougainvillea trees.
Next you come to Centro. This is where the Malecon (boardwalk) begins, and it’s a must-see lined with yummy restaurants, street performers, shopping, and nightlife. It’s also a front-row seat for Puerto Vallarta’s spectacular sunsets, which are followed by a regular fireworks show around 9:15 - 9:30pm, every single night.
Keep in mind, on weekends and holidays the Malecon is a bit of a hot mess thanks to the party bars (one of which celebrates Mardi Gras on a weekly basis for no apparent reason).
South of the Río Cuale is the Zona Romántica, PV’s LGBT district. It’s also the oldest and best-preserved section of the city with beautiful historic streets and buildings. Nightlife here is pulsating, with the highest concentration of bars and restaurants beloved by tourists and the city’s substantial gay population.
Puerto Vallarta: The best things to do
Hit up a beach club. There’s the super fancy (like, infinity-pool-on-the-beach fancy) Mantamar Beach Club, which is technically an LGBT club, but I’m none of those letters and I fit in just fine. You’ll pay top-dollar for this adults-only experience (around $80 per person for the day), but you’ll get swanky cabanas, excellent food, impeccable service, and a private section of sand un-pestered by beach vendors hawking luchador masks and weed pipes shaped like penises.
For something a little cheaper and more central, a day of lazing and lunching at Mango’s Beach Club will cost you around $30.
Of course, you absolutely do not have to pay to enjoy the beach in Puerto Vallarta. If you’re staying downtown, you can lay out on public spots like Playa Los Camarones and Playa Los Muertos.
After you’ve thoroughly baked yourself in the sun, take some time to experience Puerto Vallarta’s art scene. The entire Malecon is lined with a rotating showcase of art and impressive sculptures, and there are several small galleries owned by local artists in the city center. Every Wednesday at 6 pm an art walk will take you through some of the coolest galleries and public works.
Foodies can also join Vallarta Food Tours, a solid excuse to go nuts eating all the street food you can handle in some of the city’s more local spots. I personally recommend their Versalles tour, if you really want to “eat like a local” in PV. My favorite day trip/boat tour is with Chica Locca, a catamaran sailing company that leads trips out on the bay for whale watching, snorkeling, and visiting Islas Marietas National Park. The price includes lunch and an open bar.
The best beaches in Puerto Vallarta are just outside of town
South of town you’ll find spectacular beachfront on Playa Conchas Chinas, Playa Gemelas, and Playa Caballo/Playa Las Animas.
Accessible only by boat, Las Animas is home to a frenetic stretch of beach bars and restaurants. It’s extremely popular (read crowded), with tons of locals and tourists boisterously flitting between the sand and a frozen margarita. You can hire a water taxi to take you there, via one of the many boat operators at Los Muertos Pier in the Zona Romántica. I prefer to keep walking from Las Animas back towards Puerto Vallarta because the next beach over, Playa Caballo, is completely undeveloped and much quieter. You’ll have to bring your food and drink with you, but it’s a much more chill scene compared to Las Animas.
Or, you can DIY: Take the orange line bus from Zona Romántica to Boca de Tomatlan, which will run you about 10 pesos for the 20-minute ride. From there, a water taxi to Playa Las Animas is around 50 pesos ($2.50).
If you’re feeling adventurous or just want to skip the boat, there’s a secret hike from Boca de Tomatlan to Las Animas, which passes by several private coves and beaches along the way, including Playa Caballo. It takes an hour and a half, and you’ll hardly see a soul along the route.
If you want something even more remote, consider going farther south to Yelapa, a quiet beach community with far fewer beach bars than Las Animas and waterfall hikes nearby. You can go further still by boat to Quimixto and savor the complete tranquility of the beaches and small community there.
To the north of Puerto Vallarta is the state of Nayarit. Here you’ll find bohemian beach towns like Bucerias, La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, Sayulita, and San Pancho, with a growing stock of boutique hotels, yoga retreats, and galleries. The crowd swings a little more Lululemon these days, but they are still semi-quiet communities with authentic Mexican culture.
I recommend skipping Sayulita altogether. It’s become so overcrowded these days that I refer to it as the Tulum of the West, and I don’t mean that as a compliment. San Pancho is much more low-key. If you want something even more chill than San Pancho, consider exploring Lo de Marcos.
Puerto Vallarta: The best restaurants and bars
PV has such a large international community that you’ll find lots of other cuisines that are just as good as the local food.
Zona Romantica Restaurants
The most energetic neighborhood is Zona Romantica, with bustling Basilio Badillo as the main artery. Lined with restaurants and souvenir shops, the bulk of the action can be found in this part of town.
For some of the best tacos in the city, you can line up with the rest of the world at Pancho’s Takos. Yes, the quesadillas al pastor are absolutely worth the wait… but you will be waiting a long, long time, especially late-night when the bars start to close. If the line is too long, Los Molcajetes is a great second choice. Don Chava Taqueria Cantina is fantastic, too.
For a great cup of coffee and a delicious pastry or breakfast sandwich, I love Crema Vallarta. It’s woman- and locally owned, which always gets my vote.
If it’s date night, 116 Pulpito is a hole-in-the-wall-sized tapas restaurant, with a friendly staff and excellent cocktails.
For pizza, Los Muertos Brewing has some of the best pizza in Puerto Vallarta, but I would honestly skip everything else on their menu (including the beer).
Perhaps one of the best restaurants in Puerto Vallarta is Tintoque, which I had the pleasure of experiencing back in April. Go here for fine dining! The restaurant isn't new, but the location is. Previously it was located in the marina, but has since relocated to the Zona Romantica along the Rio Cuale. If you can score a patio seat, you've done well.
It's hard to recommend dishes at Tintoque because the menu changes regularly depending on the season. I will say, however, that what we ate was exceptional. Think tuna sashimi with capers, sliced duck, fresh burette, short rib, and lots of Mexican wine.
Cinco de Diciembre Restaurants
My first stop to eat in Puerto Vallarta is always at El Solar/Barracuda. This beachfront seafood restaurant/bar has the perfect atmosphere to say “Welcome to Mexico.” We grab a table on the deck around sunset and indulge in shrimp tacos, tuna sashimi, fresh salads, and a tequila or two. It’s my favorite place to bring people on their first or last night in Puerto Vallarta.
Street food is on almost every corner. Wander around Cinco de Diciembre and you’re sure to find a food truck selling everything from tortas and tacos, to shrimp burgers and quesadillas the size of your head. My personal favorites: El Carboncito and Tacos El Moreno. But honestly there are dozens of street carts to choose from all over the city. Just look for the ones with the most people and you’re good to go.
For killer home-cooked Mexican and a mind-blowing breakfast, go to La Chula.
Versalles Restaurants
But perhaps the most memorable dining experiences for me are in the Versalles neighborhood — the fastest-growing scene for foodies in Puerto Vallarta. Start on Calle Espana with, of course, tacos. But not just any tacos. Here we were visiting El Puerco de Oro, a small, hole-in-the-wall restaurant that serves pork belly tacos -- and only pork belly tacos. The tender, juicy meat is served as simply as possible; a table filled with toppings, garnishes and sauces offers ample opportunity to customize.
From there, head to Abulon, an alfresco seafood restaurant that serves incredible snack favorites but with its own innovative stamp. Here, it's all about the tacos de camaron al pastor. Traditionally, al pastor tacos are made with pork, but Abulon uses the spice blend on shrimp for a lighter, more refreshing taco. And yes, the pineapple is included. The tuna tostada was also absolutely decadent, heaped with plump morsels of fresh fish.
Barbacow is another favorite, for its street-style tacos. They are most famous for their barbacoa tacos, but. my favorite is the shrimp adobada.
And if you still have room (though at this point, it's doubtful), you'll want to stop into Lamara, a beach-themed ceviche restaurant serving a Mexican and Asian flavor mash-up in their excellent creations. I always somehow managed to find room for the tartar ceviche, which includes tuna, cucumber, onion, peanuts, soy sauce, ginger and sesame seeds.
Other restaurants that I love in Versalles include La Tosca Trattoria for Italian, Coco Machete for cocktails (they are a shared space with El Jardin de la Versalles, which serves Neapolitan-style pizzas), and Raiz y Maleza for finer dining and a great rooftop,
Puerto Vallarta nightlife
Nightlife in Puerto Vallarta is next-level. But, truthfully, you can choose your own adventure, whether you want a casual cocktail or glass of wine, or an all-night affair.
For chill wine bars, I love Viviero Wine Bar in Cinco de Diciember. In Versalles, La Bodega de Tony serves excellent wines and small plates.
Centro’s El Colibri has a great speakeasy vibe, as well. And then you’ll get great live music and salsa at Bodeguita El Medio. Unless you’re 18 and making bad life choices, avoid Zoo Bar, Mandala, and La Vaquita (there’s a swing there -- enough said).
For all-night parties, you’ll want Mr. Flamingo, an open-air spot popular with the LGBT community but also completely non-discriminatory. At 7pm it’s a chill, sunset happy-hour bar, but it flips into full-on party mode by 7:30, spills out into the streets, and doesn’t lose momentum until around 3am.
Afterwards, head next door to Paco’s Ranch, which is as ridiculous and raunchy as it sounds. You’ve been warned. If you want something more mellow, check out El Sonador, which is on the same block and has two floors to explore.
Puerto Vallarta is a 24-hour city if you know where to look. Even in the downtime between 5am and 9am, you can always find a spot along the Malecon for breakfast.
Coolest Hotels in Puerto Vallarta
*I earn a small commission if you book through my blog.
Come 5am you’re going to need somewhere to sleep. Airbnb is alive and well in Puerto Vallarta, so find an apartment if you want to kick it like a local. If you aren’t renting a car, you’ll want to stick to the Zona Romántica, Centro, or Cinco de Diciembre, just to avoid taxi fees.
Or you can go boutique and stay at the family-owned Villa Mercedes Petit Hotel Mercedes in the Zona Romántica. It’s one block from the beach and has a courtyard swimming pool and beautiful sunset views from the terrace.
Another boutique option is Rivera del Rio, which is almost camouflaged among the houses near the Río Cuale. The motif here is oddball elegance, with a lobby on an open balcony overlooking the street. Inside, it’s got an air of M.C. Escher, with narrow staircases, secret rooms, and eight unique suites. The best part of the hotel is the pool deck, with a Roman-style hot tub that overlooks the entire Zona Romántica.
If you’re more into traditional all-inclusives, you can certainly take your pick in the Hotel Zone. My favorite is Villa Premiere, a small resort that is both on the beach and walking distance to downtown. Another other solid but more expensive option is Hotel Mousai, about 10 minutes in a taxi from downtown.
My favorite hotel in Puerto Vallarta, however, is Casa Kimberly, which used to be the home of Elizabeth Taylor. This hilltop villa retreat is evocative of a European villa, with dramatic views over the rooftops of downtown. Even if you don’t stay in one of the nine suites, you should at least come for a cocktail at sunset.
Puerto Vallarta Pro Tips
Puerto Vallarta is a little rough around the edges, but that is the best part
The best place to stay to experience it all is in Centro or the Zona Romantica
The best beaches in Puerto Vallarta can be found outside the city
My favorite hotel in Puerto Vallarta is Hotel Mousai