The Best Things to Do in Bacalar (according to me…)
What do you know about Quintana Roo? I bet I can guess. Chances are you know about Cancun, and probably Playa del Carmen and Tulum. These are all great places to know, especially as you are getting familiar with the Mexican Caribbean. But if you’ve hung out with me at all in the last five years, you’ve probably heard me mention Bacalar, Mexico.
Bacalar is, without a doubt, one of my most favorite places in the world, and one of the best places to visit in Mexico overall. This sleepy village sits on a stunningly gorgeous lake that goes by the same name — the Bacalar lagoon, or Laguna de Bacalar. Affectionately nicknamed as the “Lake of Seven Colors,” the striking body of water has a reputation for the seven shades of blue that swirl across its surface at all hours of the day. Wreathed in mangrove jungle and peppered with boutique eco resorts, one look at Bacalar, Mexico and you’ll quickly see why it has become such a special place to me.
The small town for which the lake is named (or vice versa, I’m not entirely sure) is the epitome of laid back and beachy. Picture Tulum 15 years ago, is basically how I describe it to people. Unfortunately, that’s also how The New York Times described it, so it’s only a matter of time before it becomes actual Tulum.
For now, however, what you have in Bacalar are small, bohemian boutique hotels and resorts, casual restaurants slinging everything from cheap shrimp tacos to succulent tuna tostadas, burritos from a truck, and haute Yucatecan cuisine. Lake life reigns supreme here. Residents and visitors live and die by the crystalline fresh water in the lagoon, whether they are racing the sunset on a standup paddleboard, gently kayaking, or sailing from cove to cove.
So what are the best things to do in Bacalar? Read on to discover one of my most favorite places in Mexico.
How to Get to Bacalar
Up until recently, it wasn’t easy to get to Bacalar from the U.S. The easiest way has been to fly into Cancun and drive. But the drive from Bacalar to Cancun is roughly four hours, which is why the town became more of a hotspot for locals and backpackers than people who were looking for a quick weekend getaway.
Bacalar flights from the U.S. are limited. As of December 1, American Airlines launched a direct route from Miami to Chetumal, the capital of Quintana Roo. The drive from Chetumal to Bacalar is less than an hour, so this new direct flight means big things are coming. I’d recommend flying to Cancun and taking the bus or renting a car. You can also fly into Mexico City and take a second flight to Chetumal, or you can take the new American Airlines route.
What to Do in Bacalar
When I say it’s laid back in Bacalar, I really mean it. Back in the day, Tulum was the best for laid back bohemian beach living. But in my opinion, Tulum has become a gross exaggeration of what it was designed to be. Over-tourism is a huge problem, as is overpopulation, pollution, and the general displacement of locals from their land. Bacalar seems like a breath of fresh air, and the residents are hopeful that it stays untampered (and you can play a big role in making sure it stays that way, but more on that later).
The best things to do in Bacalar are to take it easy and truly embrace lake life. You won’t find it challenging to connect with a local outfitter who can supply you with a kayak or paddle board for the day. Vendors line up along the main lakefront avenue. Pick one, and off you go. You can sign up for Airbnb experiences, too, if you want to do something fancier like rent a sailboat for the day. But my recommendation is to talk to the locals because you can usually negotiate a cheaper rate.
Lakefront beach clubs are also incredibly popular. La Playita, for example, is one of the best beach clubs in town. The food here is outstanding, and guests have access to the long pier that sticks out into the turquoise-colored lagoon. It’s a popular spot for bringing a bathing suit, basking the day away, and popping back to the wooden dock when it’s time to refresh with a cocktail or a cold beer.
Wandering around the town is pretty easy. Traffic is nonexistent and most things are walkable. Visit the Fort of San Felipe, which was built in 1725 to protect Bacalar against pirate activity. In fact, the lagoon is connected to the Caribbean Sea via a series of channels, which pirates used to navigate in order to try to invade the mainland. All you need is 20 minutes to walk around and get a sense of its history, plus take in some of the best views of the lake.
Bacalar is also a great home base from which to explore many of the mysterious cenotes that can be found all over the Yucatan peninsula. In particular, Cenote Cocalitos, Cenote de la Bruja, and Cenote Azul are the most popular.
If you like Mayan ruins then you’ll want to build in some time to go visit the ruins of Kohunlich. Just as impressive as Coba and Tulum, Kohunlich is an ancient Mayan city in southern Quintana Roo. And because it’s so far off the tourist trail, there is a good chance you’ll have this site all to yourself. The site spans about 21 acres, shrouded in thick jungle. It is believed to have been settled by 200 BCE and is thought to be an important trade route between what is now the Yucatan, Guatemala, and Belize. Many structures have yet to be uncovered, but you can explore the impressive Temple of the Masks, the central plaza with its pyramids and temple platforms, and an additional palace complex.
For a dose of beach life, rent a car or hire a taxi and head to the other side of the lake, which is where you’ll find the Caribbean coast. The town you’re visiting here is called Mahahual — a sleepy beach village with a smattering of restaurants, beachfront bars, and quiet beaches. Further south is Xcalak, which is where you’re going if you really, *really* want to get off the grid for the utmost private beach experiences.
Bacalar Hotels
As far off your radar as Bacalar may be, it is actually one of the top vacation destinations for residents of Chetumal and Cancun. So you won’t have a tough time finding a hotel to stay in. But because Bacalar is getting more and more popular, it has a new style of resort that keeps popping up. But here are the Bacalar hotels and resorts that I recommend.
*I earn a small commission if you book these resorts through my blog.
Hotel Makaaba
I recently had the opportunity to stay at this small boutique hotel in Bacalar, and let me say how much I absolutely adored it. The vibe is designy and chic, but not “luxury” in the traditional sense. We booked it for $85 a night, which is so affordable for the style and what you get along with it. The pool blends into the restaurant so everyone is pretty casual most of the time. But the thoughtful art detail and the layout are next level for me.
This place is definitely for couples or *really* close friends. Most rooms can only have two people and they are small, but with a really cool design that involves a loft bed space with the bathroom underneath.
And then the food. Wow. Breakfast is included and I’m not talking about a continental bread basket. I’m talking about fruit, eggs, chilaquiles, and regional specialties — all included. Lunch and dinner are also incredible and nothing costs more than $11. Did I mention that all of the tortillas are blue corn and handmade?
Casa Hormiga
Casa Hormiga is an absolutely gorgeous hotel. It opened in 2020 and it is the perfect example of the direction in which Bacalar is headed. The design is flawless, built with the same level of craftsmanship, attention to detail, and sheer beauty that I’ve seen at resorts that cost five times the price.
The ethos of Casa Hormiga is quiet, peace, tranquility, and eco-consciousness. A massive handwoven palapa is the centerpiece of the resort, making you feel as though you’ve stolen away deep into the jungle — except you’re walking distance to the lagoon and the small “centro.”
The natural light creates a different vibe at every time of day. By night everything glows from hanging lanterns and candles. Honestly the design is so soothing that it’s easy to lose track of the outside world, and I’m pretty sure that’s the point. I described it as the place that backpackers go to when they have grown out of their 20s and into a higher price point, though rooms here start at $150 and I think that is a remarkable steal for a hotel of this caliber.
The restaurant is small, with only a few snack-style items for dinner. Breakfast is the bigger show. The included breakfast is small but sustainable, but you can order something from the menu if you want to see the chef really flex his or her skills. An honor bar is in the library, where you can grab beer, wine, or cocktails and write it down in a book.
This is definitely for couples. It is beyond romantic. That said, friends who want to disconnect from the world and reconnect through meditation and yoga will also have a great time here. If you are a social butterfly you may find it is too quiet for you.
Rancho Encantado
Rancho Encantado is the first lake resort I ever visited in Bacalar, and is the one that made me fall in love with the destination. Located outside of town, the quiet bungalow-style resort is all about experiencing everything the lake has to offer.
The spacious bungalows are done up in a more traditional Mexican-style decor, with canopied beds, tiled floors, wooden furniture, and pops of bright colors. Rooms can be modest, but really very comfortable. Master Suites have direct access to the lagoon and their own private pools.
The center of the action at the resort is Los Hechizos Restaurant, which sits underneath a giant palapa overlooking the lagoon. The menu here is casual, but absolutely delicious, from the traditional Mexican breakfasts to the amazingly decadent lunches and dinners.
The restaurant is connected to the pier, which has hanging hammocks, kayaks and paddle boards that guests can take out onto the lake. Other perks of the resort are the pool and jacuzzi, as well as a small spa.
The Explorean Kohunlich
Farther out, closer to the ruins of Kohunlich, is one of the most incredible all-inclusive resorts I have ever had the opportunity to stay at. The Explorean Kohunlich is unlike any resort in Quintana Roo, and it is absolutely a must for couples who like a little bit of luxury and a lot of adventure.
This oasis is shrouded in mist and greenery, found in the heart of the jungle just outside of Chetumal. Complete with 38 bungalows and two cabanas, the Explorean Kohunlich puts guests at the doorstep of nature, as well as local Mayan culture.
When you check into your bungalow, you essentially check out of the rest of the world. Inside the bungalow is neither WiFi nor television. Inside is all you'll need: a king-size bed, terrace with a hammock, and a small, private backyard. That said, the rest of the resort is plugged in with fast and reliable WiFi from the main lobby.
The lobby is also where you'll find the pool, restaurant, spa, and self-serve bar. The resort is all-inclusive, which is helpful because it's rather isolated. The quality is next-level, too, with a focus on local ingredients to make Yucatecan specialties.
Not only is food and drink included, but all activities are part of the daily rate. And this is not your regularly scheduled programming. Explorean uses its location to create one-of-a-kind experiences, each with a luxury twist. Among the many surprising experiences I enjoyed with my stay, one was a visit to Bacalar. Kayaks were set up waiting for me on the southern corner of the lake, where no other visitors typically go. We embarked under the open sky paddling into the brilliant blue. After our paddle and swim in the lake, we returned to the shore where a beautifully decorated table had been set up in our absence, strewn with shrimp aguachile, grilled meat, and, of course, a bar.
The final night at the resort was no less awe-inspiring. I was led through the jungle surrounding the resort for a discussion on local Mayan legends and one final look up at the stars. On our way back to the hotel, my guide shifted his route, venturing deeper into the jungle. Standing on a small hill, surrounded in total darkness, he blew into a conch shell, and the forest erupted in an orange blaze as torches caught fire, lighting up one last magical al fresco meal under the stars. There is no proper way to give this resort the true justice it deserves. But it is absolutely one of a kind.
Keeping Bacalar True to Itself
The problem with places like Cancun, Playa del Carmen, and Tulum is that they are incredibly overcrowded, and were designed in a way that gave preference to the tourist, rather than the local. While there are so many things about northern Quintana Roo that are incredible, like the resorts, experiences, and tourist infrastructure, these destinations have created an “us against them” culture between the visitor and the resident. In the process, sustainability has gone out the window, both in terms of preserving local culture, as well as the environment.
Bacalar does not want to become that. They want to remain accessible to all, and to prioritize the preservation of the environment. How can you help?
Go local. Promote and support the businesses that are Mexican-owned. Support the businesses that make the environment a priority. Remember first and foremost that you are a guest in someone else’s country and that it is a privilege to be there. Even though locals may work in the restaurants and hotels, they are not on this planet to serve you. Tip well. Be grateful. Try to communicate as much as you can in Spanish. Keep Mexico…Mexican.
Bacalar, Mexico is one of the most beautiful places on the planet. One visit will never be enough. It could never be enough because it is the gateway to an incredible part of Mexico. I can’t wait for you to discover this place and to appreciate it as much as I do. Safe travels and enjoy!
Bacalar Pro Tips
Bacalar is first and foremost an eco-conscious, quiet destination.
If you are looking for a party, stay closer to Tulum.
The best things to do are to get out on the lake and enjoy nature.
Don’t forget the Mayan ruins, fresh seafood restaurants, or the beaches of Mahahual.
My favorite hotel here is Hotel Makaaba.